Edith Head is one of the most iconic costume designers of all time having won eight Oscars, 35 Academy Awards nominations as well as her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. What makes her such a monumental figure in costume design history?
Her sheer persistence
After studying languages and graduating from the University of California in 1919, Edith Head went into a career of teaching. She taught languages at the Hollywood School for Girls. However, the income was not enough to provide for herself and her husband Charles throughout the summer, so she began searching for another job.
After seeing an advertisement for a position as a sketch artist at Paramount studios, she decided to apply. However, the application required a portfolio of sketches which she did not have. She did not let this stand in the way and found a way around her lack of portfolio.
Edith had been taking drawing classes in her spare time at a local art college. Instead of quickly putting together her own portfolio of sketches, instead, she 'borrowed' her classmate's sketches and used them to apply for the role.
She ended up coming clean about using her classmate's sketches, nevertheless, she landed the job role! Paramount's Chief designer, Howard Greer had felt that her language skills would be extremely useful for the company as they were expanding to create foreign versions of their movies. Edith has since said that ‘I was the only one who could talk readily with the foreign stars’ - the beginning of her career is owed to her language skills and persistence.
2. Her ability to work as a team
It was in 1927 that Edith Head had been given the opportunity to dress Clara Bow. This was her first time styling a big Hollywood style. This happened out of luck as the other costume designer, Travis Banton, had fallen out with the actress. Despite being an incredible step, Edith was disappointed. She had very little opportunity to be creative as Clara would have to wear an army costume throughout the entirety of the film. However, this acted as a key learning point in her career as Banton and Greer told her that what is best for the character and film is what comes first.
This piece of advice led to her becoming one of the most successful costume designers of all time. She learned to consider all aspects of the film when designing the costume. She utilised working with the team of the film to create designs that would be carefully considered. She would use her skills and adjust to the needs of the rest of the film crew, whether it was director or cinematographers.
3. Her creative spark
Edith Head is known for using her creativity to ensure her costumes would perfectly align with the film. When designing and putting together costumes for films she would wear glasses that were tinted dark-blue. She wore these so much they became her trademark.
The reason behind these tinted glasses? She wore them as they allowed her to see and understand how the clothes would look in black and white, as at the start of her career, colour in films was unheard of.
"Clothes can not only make the woman - they can make her several women. There's no one style, there's a style for a mood' - Edith Head
4. Defying gender expectations
Edith's career as a costume designer began in the 1930s. This was a time where society's views were still largely sexist, thus, women were put at a disadvantage compared to men in nearly all aspects. Men dominated all industries, there were was a low chance of a woman having a career as successful as a male counterpart. Film studios specifically did not provide female employees with many opportunities. Despite this, Head went on to be the first-ever woman to run a studio's costume design department!
Head defied all odds that were against her and went on to become one of the most successful costume designers of all time. having won eight Oscars, 35 Academy Awards nominations, alongside her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame.
5. Her dedication to her career
Head has her determination to thank for her lengthy, successful career in the world of costume design. From starting with no experience at all she had to progress and work her way up. She learned through watching how those around her worked and quickly picked up the skills she needed.
She went from dressing animals and minor characters to dressing some of the biggest names in Hollywood from Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Elizabeth Taylor. Over her career, it has been estimated she had worked on costume design for over 1000 films.
She worked for 2 renowned studios during her career. When Paramount was sold in 1967, she immediately went on to become the Chief Designer at Universal Studios. She had a long and successful career at Universal until she, unfortunately, passed away in 1981 at 83 years old.
Sources of information:
Edith Head's Legacy by Sam Wasson
GENDERED LABOUR, GENDER POLITICS: HOW EDITH HEAD DESIGNED HER CAREER AND STYLED WOMENS LIVES by Kate Fortmueller
St James Women's Filmmakers Encyclopedia by Fiona Valentine
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