A Fashion Feud: Schiaparelli vs Chanel

Updated: Feb 3, 2022

A historic rivalry in fashion history.

Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the biggest designers in the 1920s and 1930s, despite both being extremely successful, they had very different tastes and opinions on fashion. These differences, and the sheer competitiveness of the industry, led to a rivalry between Chanel and Schiaparelli that lasted years.

Their differences stem from their personal backgrounds, they both had very different experiences growing up and this may be one reason why Chanel was initially so bitter towards Schiaparelli's rise. Chanel was the second illegitimate child of a young peasant girl who died shortly after Chanel's birth, and her father was not capable of looking after Chanel so she and her siblings were sent to an orphanage that was run by nuns. Other than this, Chanel's background is kept fairly secretive and unknown, this is deliberate so Chanel could avoid thinking back on her unpleasant past.

Gabrielle Chanel lies on a chair with a cigarette in her hand, looking away from the camers. She wears a black dress with a statement necklace and a ribbon in her hair. — Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1937 shot by Horst

On the contrary, Elsa Schiaparelli came from an educated, upper-middle-class background. Her father was an orientalist which meant she grew up around literature, her uncle was a distinguished astronomer and her cousin was an Egyptologist who had made important discoveries. Elsa's intellectual background meant she had a privilege that Chanel did not, therefore, arguably, Chanel had to work harder for her position.

Chanel and Schiaparelli's rivalry is partly informed by the fact that they had completely different outlooks on what fashion was. Chanel viewed clothing as a 'technique, a craft, a business' according to Morand (1976) - taking a more industrial approach. Whereas Schiaparelli had a completely contrasting view. She felt that 'dress designing is not a profession but an art. Her designs were very much inspired by surrealism art, a movement that had begun in the early 20s, she even collaborated with artists such as Salvador Dali.

"Clothing was for Chanel a technique, a craft, a business'' - Morand (1976)

Elsa Schiaparelli looks at a board of her designs — Elsa Schiaparelli planning a collection. Image via Getty Images / Vogue

Schiaparelli's rise caused Chanel paranoia about being overshadowed. In 1937 she even publicly complained that Schiaparelli had received more coverage in Vogue than her. In response, Schiaparelli called Chanel a 'dreary little bourgeoise' who 'specialised in cemeteries'. Their rivalry was in the public eye and neither of them were afraid to humiliate the other. At one point, Schiaparelli was having lunch with the Vogue photographer Horst. Chanel walked in and came up to their table and had a conversation with Horst for over an hour - completely disregarding the fact Schiaparelli was even there!

Sometimes, the rivalry was taken too far to the point it became physically dangerous. Photographer Andrè Durst held a costume ball just before World War II broke out. Chanel, dressed in her famously, simplistic but elegant style dared Schiaparelli, (who of course was dressed in a surrealist manner) to dance with her. Chanel used this as an opportunity to steer Schiaparelli into some candles, setting Schiaparelli on fire! Fortunately, the fire was put out with the help of other guests.

However, despite their differences, it does not change the fact they both had a significant impact on changing fashion. Chanel created clothes for the 'New Woman' who had now entered the workforce and had greater independence. Her clothes were comfortable and practical and took inspiration from menswear, fitting into new ideas about androgyny. Meanwhile, Schiaparelli helped change how fashion was viewed, incorporating new and shocking concepts of fetish and risqué symbolism and creating designs that could be considered pieces of surrealism art.